Nottingham – rebels, royals and Robin Hood

Nottingham is one of those places that arrives with its own myth. Say the name and up pops Robin Hood in his little green hat, squaring off against the Sheriff with a bow and some improbable stunts. But this East Midlands city is more than the sum of its legends. Beneath the forest fables is a story of invention, rebellion, lacework, literature and a defiantly creative spirit. You can feel it amongst the redbrick warehuses of the Lace Market and in the swagger of its independent shops and creative businesses in Hockley. This is a place with punch and purpose and a few surprises up its sleeve.

Old market, new ideas

Start in the heart of the city at Old Market Square. It is one of the largest public spaces in the UK and has long been a place where people gather to protest, skate, sunbathe or eat chips at lunchtime. At one end is the domed City Council House, which looks rather like it should house something grand and Roman but mostly contains a flying goose called Emett and some shops underneath.

Branch out from the square and the city starts to show its layers. The streets slope upward into the Lace Market district, once the epicentre of the world’s lace trade. The name might conjure something dainty and old-fashioned but the area is full of energy. Grand red-brick warehouses have been turned into bars, cafés and studios. Look for hidden details in the old factory façades and you will spot carved stone bees and baskets. These buildings were designed to impress buyers from Paris and Milan back in the day and they still hold a certain glamour.

Round the corner is Hockley, often referred to as Nottingham’s Creative Quarter, although locals just think of it as the place with the best coffee and weirdest vintage shops. There are places that sell houseplants in cocktail glasses and vegan shawarma joints that are genuinely excellent. The Broadway Cinema here is a local gem and an excellent place to lose a rainy afternoon with a European indie or cult reissue.

A literary city with a rebellious streak

This is the city of DH Lawrence and Alan Sillitoe and one of only a few in the world to be named a UNESCO City of Literature. It fits. Nottingham has always done things its own way. During the English Civil War it declared for Parliament and built some very serious-looking fortifications. Later it became a centre of the Luddite movement. Yes, the original Luddites smashed up looms here in protest at new technology and working conditions. That same rebellious spirit still flares up now and then. Nottingham has never been one to roll over and say yes.

You can dig into that literary legacy at the excellent Nottingham Contemporary art gallery which often ties in local themes, or at the much smaller and very charming Bromley House Library. This is a private subscription library hidden behind a fairly standard looking door on Angel Row. Inside it is all spiral staircases and window seats and hushed bookish loveliness. Non-members can usually join one of the public tours which are well worth it just to stand in a Georgian reading room above a shopping street.

Caves, castles and curious corners

Below the city lies a whole other Nottingham. More than 800 caves have been carved into the soft sandstone under the streets. Some were used as tanneries or air raid shelters. One became a medieval pub cellar. Another was turned into a Victorian slum dwelling. You can explore a few of them via the City of Caves attraction or better still book a walking tour that takes in the hidden entrances dotted around town.

Above ground you will find Nottingham Castle. Sort of. The original Norman fortress was mostly destroyed during the Civil War and replaced with a ducal palace that looks more stately home than storybook. Still it is well worth visiting. A major refurbishment has added interactive exhibits and rooftop views and the grounds are lovely on a sunny day. And yes they do have a Robin Hood section. Because of course they do.

Across from the castle gates stands Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, a pub that claims to be the oldest in England. This is disputed by at least three other pubs with equal fervour but it is certainly one of the most atmospheric. The rooms are built into the rock and there is something gloriously medieval about sipping a pint beside the rough stone walls. Just don’t touch the cursed galleon in the corner. You have been warned.

Out in the green

Nottingham is famously linked with Sherwood Forest although the modern city has long since expanded beyond the old forest bounds. Still you can reach the remaining woods in less than an hour by bus and there is something satisfying about visiting the Major Oak and realising that it actually does look rather impressive. The tree is estimated to be around 1000 years old and has propped-up branches that look like something out of a fantasy novel.

Closer to the city is Wollaton Park, home to a splendid Elizabethan mansion that doubled as Wayne Manor in a Batman film. The house is now a natural history museum with a pleasingly eccentric mix of taxidermy and dinosaur bones. The grounds are full of deer, joggers and children on scooters. It is a great place to bring a picnic and forget you are in the middle of a city.

Something brewing

In recent years Nottingham has become something of a hotspot for small-batch breweries and indie food spots. There are excellent ales to be had at the Canalhouse, where you can sit beside an actual canal that runs into the bar, or at the Barrel Drop which does not advertise itself much and does not need to. The city hosts a popular Craft Beer Festival and many local pubs take beer seriously all year round.

Food-wise it is all here if you know where to look. Nottingham Street Food Club is a good bet for weekend grazing and the city’s independent restaurant scene punches above its weight. Try Kushi-ya for Japanese skewers in a narrow little alleyway or Alchemilla for something more ambitious in an old Victorian coach house.

Nottingham in a nutshell

Nottingham is not a city that shouts. It gets on with things in its own inventive way and lets the stories pile up. Some are carved into stone. Others lie buried underground. Some are found in libraries or lace shops or alleyway cafés. And yes some of them involve men in tights robbing the rich. But look past the legend and you will find a place full of character and contrasts. It is a city that surprises. And that might be its greatest trick of all.

Nottingham need to know

Getting here

Nottingham is well-connected by train, with direct services from London St Pancras (around 1 hour 45 minutes), Birmingham (under 1 hour) and Sheffield (about 50 minutes). Drivers can reach the city via the M1, exiting at junctions 24 to 26 depending on your route in. There’s ample parking in multi-storey car parks, though it can get busy on weekends. The city is compact enough to explore on foot or by tram. For a more scenic arrival, cycle in along the River Trent or cruise up via the Nottingham and Beeston Canal.

Where to stay

There’s something for every budget, from canalside boutiques to grand Georgian townhouses. Hart’s Hotel, just up from the castle, offers sleek design and sweeping views. The Lace Market Hotel puts you in the thick of things with style to spare. For something quirkier, try Mama’s Inn on Mansfield Road with its themed rooms and warm welcome.

Where to eat

Kushi-ya is a local favourite for Japanese small plates served in an unassuming alleyway. Alchemilla delivers bold, modern British tasting menus in a vaulted former coach house. For more casual bites, try the Nottingham Street Food Club at weekends or grab lunch and a pint at the canal-side Canalhouse.

What to do (beyond Robin Hood)

• Explore the city’s underground City of Caves.
• Take in skyline views and local history at Nottingham Castle.
• Wander the galleries at Nottingham Contemporary or check out the street art in Sneinton Market.
• Climb the narrow stairs at Green’s Windmill and browse the science centre.
• Catch a film at the Broadway Cinema or a show at Nottingham Playhouse
• Stroll through the deer-dotted grounds of Wollaton Hall or picnic by the lake

Nearby gems

• Sherwood Forest for ancient oaks and outlaw legends.
• Newstead Abbey, Lord Byron’s ancestral home.
• Southwell Minster for soaring Gothic beauty on a smaller scale.
• Attenborough Nature Reserve for birds, boardwalks and a peaceful walking loop.

Best time to visit

Spring and early summer show the city’s green spaces at their best and are ideal for outdoor exploring. October brings festivals and crisp woodland walks. Winter is quieter but atmospheric, especially around the Christmas lights and castle markets.