Devon sits quietly in the southwest, content to offer something for almost everyone. Rolling hills? Yes. Dramatic coastlines? Absolutely. Cream teas? As many as you can handle. People have been coming here for centuries to relax, ramble and occasionally argue about whether the cream or jam goes on first. (Devon says cream first, in case you are wondering. Cornwall disagrees, of course.)
It is a county with two coastlines, two national parks, and a way of life that seems gently detached from the busier parts of England.
Smugglers, seafarers and a bit of Sir Francis Drake
Devon has always had a strong relationship with the sea. Its south coast is dotted with historic ports like Dartmouth and Brixham, once home to smugglers and fishermen, while Plymouth’s harbour witnessed Sir Francis Drake famously finishing his game of bowls before sailing out to meet the Spanish Armada. (One suspects he may not have been quite as relaxed as the story suggests.)
Further west lies Plymouth Hoe, where the view still takes in warships, ferries and the odd ice cream van. The old Barbican area remains a tangle of cobbled streets, pubs and echoes of centuries of seafaring adventures.
Moors, ponies and wide open skies
Inland, Devon changes character entirely. Dartmoor spreads out like a great lump of granite draped in moorland, where ponies roam and mist clings to tors with names that sound like lost Tolkien characters. The weather can switch from sunshine to sideways rain in under five minutes, and frequently does.
To the north lies Exmoor, a slightly more polite cousin to Dartmoor, with rolling hills, deep wooded valleys and some of the darkest night skies in England. Both moors offer endless walking opportunities, usually involving at least one unexpected hill and the feeling that you may have slightly underestimated the distance.
Beaches, coves and the English Riviera
Devon’s beaches cover the full range. On the north coast, surfers ride the waves at Croyde, Woolacombe and Saunton Sands, while walkers tackle the spectacular South West Coast Path. To the south, the so-called English Riviera takes in Torquay, Paignton and Brixham, where palm trees occasionally give a slightly optimistic hint of the Mediterranean.
The coastline continues eastward into the Jurassic Coast, where cliffs crumble to reveal fossils that have not seen daylight for millions of years. It is geology with sea views.
Castles, cathedrals and cream teas
Devon’s historic highlights include Exeter Cathedral, which has quietly been standing there since the 12th century, complete with the longest uninterrupted Gothic vault ceiling in the world. Powderham Castle near the River Exe still serves as a grand family home with equally grand views.
And then there is the cream tea. In Devon, the correct method is to split the scone, spread on the clotted cream, and top with jam. To do otherwise is considered rather suspect. Expect strong opinions and second helpings.
Where time slows down
The real charm of Devon often lies in the quiet moments. A hidden cove at low tide. A village green with a church tower chiming the hour. A narrow country lane lined with wildflowers and just wide enough for one small car and one large argument over who reverses.
Devon does not hurry. And after a few days here, you will not want to either.
