Right in the centre of England, Leicestershire offers a fine mixture of countryside, industry, ancient battles and the occasional surprise king turning up in a car park. It is one of those counties that has quietly played a bigger role in English history than people often realise, while today managing to balance busy cities with open fields, grand houses and a few very enthusiastic cheese-makers.
Leicestershire does not make a great fuss. It simply gets on with the business of being pleasantly varied.
Romans, roads and the crossroads of England
The Romans saw Leicestershire as a handy spot for building roads, most famously Watling Street (now the A5), which still slices through the county more or less where they left it. The town of Leicester itself has ancient Roman roots, though most visitors today know it more for shopping, football, and one unexpected royal rediscovery.
In 2012, archaeologists found the remains of King Richard III under a council car park in Leicester, bringing a rather spectacular end to a 500-year-old mystery. The story is now told in the excellent King Richard III Visitor Centre, just a short walk from Leicester Cathedral, where his remains now rest more peacefully.
Castles, battlefields and medieval echoes
Leicestershire’s history continues on the battlefield at Bosworth, where Richard III famously lost both his crown and his life to Henry Tudor in 1485. The Bosworth Battlefield Heritage Centre brings the story to life, complete with walking trails and informative displays, though thankfully without the actual fighting.
Belvoir Castle (pronounced “Beaver” for reasons best not examined too closely) offers grand views over the Vale of Belvoir, with turrets, state rooms and gardens that feel thoroughly aristocratic. Ashby-de-la-Zouch Castle, though partly ruined, remains wonderfully climbable, with excellent views from the tower.
Market towns, fox hunting and villages with very tidy hedges
Away from the cities, Leicestershire’s countryside offers a patchwork of rolling farmland, hedgerows and quietly prosperous market towns. Melton Mowbray is famous for its pork pies and Stilton cheese, both produced with an enthusiasm that borders on national pride.
Melton was also long considered the capital of fox hunting, though the sport’s modern controversies have rather shifted that status into the history books. Still, the town retains a slightly horsey air, and you will find no shortage of fine saddleries and country outfitters.
Market Harborough, Loughborough, and Hinckley all provide pleasant town centres, independent shops and high streets where life moves at a steady, comfortable pace.
Canals, reservoirs and rather a lot of ducks
Leicestershire’s canals, once busy with industrial traffic, are now perfect for towpath walks, narrowboat holidays and the occasional sighting of an extremely nonchalant heron. Rutland Water (technically just over the border in neighbouring Rutland, but firmly part of many Leicestershire weekends) offers sailing, birdwatching and enough wide open space to keep walkers and cyclists happily occupied.
Bradgate Park, just outside Leicester, offers a beautiful stretch of countryside dotted with deer, ancient oaks, and the ruins of Lady Jane Grey’s (the Nine Days Queen) childhood home. The views from the top of Old John – a curious hilltop tower – stretch far across the county.
Where England does variety without fuss
Leicestershire is not dramatic. It offers no towering peaks or crashing coastline. Instead, it provides history, countryside, grand houses and a quietly confident variety. After a while, you begin to appreciate its steady charm, and you are never far from a decent pork pie.
Top 10 reasons to visit Leicestershire
Leicestershire has a way of creeping up on you. Tucked away in the East Midlands, it rarely shouts about itself, yet scratch the surface and you’ll find medieval kings, eccentric museums, and enough countryside to keep your boots muddy for days. Here are ten reasons why this under-sung county deserves your time.
1. Richard III’s final resting place
Leicester Cathedral is now the permanent home of England’s most debated monarch. Dug up from beneath a council car park in 2012, Richard III was reinterred with the pomp he probably would have preferred the first time. The visitor centre nearby tells the tale in suitably dramatic fashion.
2. The National Space Centre
Leicester is home to rockets, satellites, and a full-sized Soyuz capsule. The National Space Centre looks like a giant silver slug has landed by the River Soar, but step inside and you’ll find six galleries of cosmic wonders, a planetarium, and enough buttons to keep children and adults happily pressing for hours.
3. Melton Mowbray pork pies
This is pork pie country, and Melton Mowbray is the undisputed capital. They are handmade, filled with seasoned pork, and baked without a mould so the crust develops its famous bow-legged wobble. A pilgrimage to sample one fresh from a local bakery is practically mandatory.
4. Stilton cheese
If the pork pies don’t finish you off, Leicestershire also lays claim to Stilton. Colston Bassett and Long Clawson dairies produce the creamy, veined classic. Pair it with a glass of port and you have a snack that can make winter evenings suddenly feel less bleak.
5. Market towns with character
Oakham, Uppingham, and Market Harborough all deliver the kind of English market town charm that seems designed for Sunday afternoons. Stone cottages, quirky shops, and pubs that look like they’ve been waiting for you since the seventeenth century.
6. Bradgate Park
A huge swathe of ancient deer parkland just outside Leicester, Bradgate is where Lady Jane Grey, the Nine Days’ Queen, once lived. Now it’s better known for roaming deer, big skies, and rocky hills that give you views stretching across the county.
7. Foxton Locks
This flight of ten locks on the Grand Union Canal is Britain’s longest staircase. Watching narrowboats creep up and down is oddly addictive, and the old lock-keeper’s cottage adds a touch of heritage. There’s even a canal-side pub for essential refreshment.
8. Bosworth Battlefield
The Wars of the Roses reached their bloody conclusion here in 1485 when Richard III lost both his crown and his life. Today, a visitor centre and trail explain the twists and betrayals, while the fields themselves remain surprisingly peaceful.
9. Leicester’s cultural mix
Leicester is one of the most diverse cities in Britain. Nowhere is this more joyfully obvious than during the annual Diwali celebrations, which draw crowds in their tens of thousands. Expect lights, fireworks, music, and some of the best Indian food you’ll eat without boarding a plane.
10. Countryside surprises
Beyond the city and towns, Leicestershire’s countryside is gently rolling, speckled with canals, and full of walking trails. The National Forest edges into the north-west, while Rutland Water on the county border is a haven for birdwatchers, cyclists, and anyone in need of a scenic picnic spot.
