Arriving in Norwich feels like stepping into a well-thumbed storybook. The train pulls in after skimming across the flat lands of East Anglia, where the sky always seems far too big for its own good. The station itself, with its handsome Victorian brickwork, offers a gentle introduction to a city that wears its history with easy confidence.
If you are driving, the approach gives you teasing glimpses of church spires and the unmistakable crown of the cathedral. Parking can be a minor test of patience, but once you have abandoned the car, Norwich reveals itself best on foot.
Walking through history
Norwich has the curious habit of feeling both vast and intimate. You can cover much of the centre in a single, unhurried afternoon, yet around every corner there seems to be another alley, another crooked building, another surprise.
The star attraction is, of course, Norwich Cathedral. Its spire punctures the skyline like a needle holding the city together. Step inside and you are greeted by cool stone, impossibly high vaults, and cloisters that whisper stories of monks and merchants. The cathedral close, with its tidy lawns and ancient houses, is one of the most peaceful spots in the city.
A short walk away is Elm Hill. Here, cobbled streets wind past half-timbered buildings that lean on each other for support, like old friends posing for a group photo. The place feels improbably intact, as if a film set designer has been given a particularly generous budget.
Norwich Castle, perched on its artificial mound, offers a more martial slice of history. Once a Norman keep designed to keep the locals in check, it now houses a museum packed with everything from Roman artefacts to Victorian art. The views from the castle mound are well worth the climb.
Markets and meandering
Norwich Market is one of the oldest and largest open-air markets in the country. The striped canopies form a colourful patchwork in the city centre, offering everything from fresh produce to vintage clothes to mysterious gadgets of uncertain purpose.
Nearby, the Royal Arcade provides a touch of Edwardian elegance. This covered shopping street, all Art Nouveau curves and flourishes, is home to independent shops selling chocolate, jewellery and other temptations.
For those with a taste for the printed word, Norwich more than delivers. As England’s first UNESCO City of Literature, it boasts a fine selection of bookshops. Jarrold’s, the grand department store, has an excellent book section, while The Book Hive offers a more eclectic, personal browsing experience.
Food and drink
Norwich does not shout about its food scene but quietly excels at it. For breakfast or a light lunch, Bread Source serves excellent pastries and sourdough, while Strangers Coffee does justice to your morning brew.
For something heartier, head to Benedicts, where locally sourced ingredients are transformed into dishes that feel both inventive and comforting. The Assembly House, set in a grand Georgian building, offers afternoon tea that is almost too pretty to eat. Almost.
The city also takes its pubs seriously. The Fat Cat is a local institution with a formidable selection of ales. The Adam and Eve, claiming to be the oldest pub in Norwich, offers a cosier, low-ceilinged experience by the river.
Riverside and beyond
The River Wensum loops gently through the city, offering pleasant waterside walks. Pull’s Ferry, once used to bring stone for the cathedral, sits prettily by the water. The Riverside Walk continues past swans and willow trees, giving occasional glimpses of the cathedral spire peeking between rooftops.
If you fancy stretching your legs further, Mousehold Heath provides panoramic views back over the city. On a clear day, you can see the patchwork of rooftops and church towers that have earned Norwich its nickname as the city of churches.
Arts and oddities
The city has a healthy taste for the arts. Norwich Theatre Royal draws touring productions, while Norwich Playhouse offers a more intimate setting with an excellent bar attached. The Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts, on the campus of the University of East Anglia, houses an impressive collection ranging from ancient sculptures to modern masters, all within a building that feels like it belongs in a Bond film.
For something a little more offbeat, visit the Museum of Norwich at the Bridewell, which tells the story of the city’s many trades and industries, from shoe making to chocolate. Strangers’ Hall, meanwhile, offers a walk through the lives of Norwich’s well-to-do over the centuries.
Staying the night
Accommodation ranges from charming guesthouses to modern hotels. The Maids Head Hotel, claiming to be England’s oldest, offers a mix of period charm and comfort, right in the heart of the city. For something more contemporary, The Assembly House also has a handful of rooms that blend Georgian splendour with modern touches.
Final thoughts
Norwich is a city that rewards dawdling. It is best enjoyed without too much of a plan, allowing yourself to be drawn down side streets and into little shops and cafes you had not meant to visit. It is a place where the past feels present but never overbearing, and where you can easily spend a weekend feeling you have discovered somewhere quietly special.
