There are plenty of places in Britain where the sea meets the land and people try their best to enjoy the bit in between, but Brighton and Hove is in a class of its own. This is a place where pebbles are part of the charm, pier amusements verge on performance art, and drag queens are more common than deckchairs. A heady cocktail of pleasure-seeking, rebellion, faded grandeur and reinvention, Brighton and Hove wears its eccentricity with pride.
It’s been attracting eccentrics and escapees for over two centuries. From Georgian aristocrats escaping the city’s smog to 1960s mods on Vespas and 21st-century digital nomads in search of coffee and queer culture, this is a city that knows how to welcome the different, the daring and the delightfully odd.
A tale of two halves
Let’s start with Hove. Hove, actually, as the locals like to remind you, usually with a twinkle and a glass of something chilled. It’s the calmer, leafier twin to Brighton’s buzz. Elegant townhouses, wide boulevards and a proper old-school seafront promenade define Hove’s character. You’re more likely to spot dogs in bow ties than drunken hen parties here, and its lawns and gardens feel designed for picnics, paperbacks and watching the world dawdle by.
Brighton, meanwhile, is louder, prouder and altogether more irrepressible. The North Laine district is a labyrinth of quirky shops, record stores and cafés, the sort of place where you can buy a handmade soap that looks like cheese and no one will question your choices. Then there’s the Lanes – older, narrower and more jewellery-focused -where the buildings lean conspiratorially into one another and every corner feels like the setup to a Dickensian plot twist.
A pier, a palace and a pebbled beach
No visit to Brighton is complete without a stroll along the Palace Pier. Candyfloss, dodgems, deckchairs, it’s all here in full seaside technicolour. Some will find it delightfully nostalgic, others deliciously kitsch, but everyone should give the 2p coin pushers a go at least once. The other pier, the skeletal remains of the West Pier, stands offshore like a haunted relic, beloved by photographers and gulls alike.
Then there’s the Royal Pavilion. It looks like someone took a bit too much laudanum and decided to build the Taj Mahal in Sussex. It’s ridiculous in the best possible way, with onion domes, gilded dragons and interiors that resemble the fever dreams of a particularly decorative Victorian. And yet, it works. Somehow, it all works.
The beach, famously pebbled, is less for sunbathing and more for people-watching. Students with guitars, cold swimmers with thermoses, yoga groups, tattooed poets and stressed-out city escapees all find space here. There’s a wonderful egalitarianism to a Brighton beach day – everyone’s a bit uncomfortable, and everyone’s having a lovely time.
Arts, attitude and avocado
Brighton is also Britain’s unofficial capital of alternative everything. Its arts scene thrives not just during the May festivals but year-round. The city is full of street art and indie theatres and spoken word nights and jazz brunches. And of course, there’s Pride, one of the biggest and brightest in the UK, it transforms the city into a riot of colour, celebration and unapologetic joy.
And the food scene. Brighton is where kale meets cake in the most improbable but satisfying ways. You can eat sustainably sourced oysters on one street and deep-fried mac and cheese balls on the next. Vegan options abound, but so do classic fish and chips. The city’s markets, pop-ups and seaside kiosks punch far above their weight. Special mention to the cafes that serve oat milk flat whites with a side of plant parenting advice.
Sea air and side streets
One of Brighton and Hove’s greatest charms is how walkable it is. Every street feels like it might lead to something interesting – a hidden pub, a secret garden, a shop that only sells Japanese stationery. The architecture, from Regency grandeur to Victorian whimsy, gives even residential streets a sense of theatre.
There’s also something about the air. It smells of salt and possibility. It makes you feel lighter and sillier and more likely to buy a ukulele you don’t need. Brighton has this peculiar ability to make you think that today is the day you’ll reinvent yourself. Or at least get your nose pierced.
Things to do on a rainy day
If the weather turns (as it often does) there’s no need to sulk. The Brighton Museum and Art Gallery is a gem, housing everything from Egyptian artefacts to 20th-century fashion. The Sea Life Centre, with its Victorian arches and gently disapproving turtles, is surprisingly lovely. Or head to one of the many pubs, preferably one with board games and questionable wallpaper, and settle in until the skies clear.
Alternatively, hop a bus out to the South Downs. Even in drizzle, the rolling hills and chalky views offer a contrast to the city’s bohemian buzz. You might even see the occasional alpaca. They’re very Brighton.
Brighton and Hove at a glance
Getting here
- Trains run frequently from London Victoria and London Bridge with a journey time of about one hour
- Easily accessible by car via the A23 and A27 but parking is limited and expensive
- National Express and other coach services connect Brighton with major UK cities
Where to stay
- For boutique charm try Artist Residence or the Square Townhouse
- Budget travellers might enjoy Selina Brighton or YHA Brighton
- Seafront hotels include the Grand and the Hilton Metropole for classic coastal stays
Where to eat
- Grab brunch at Cafe Coho or The Breakfast Club
- Visit Terre à Terre for imaginative vegetarian dishes
- For fish and chips head to Bardsley’s or the Regency Restaurant
What to do
- Wander the Lanes and North Laine for vintage shopping and local art
- Tour the Royal Pavilion and its lush gardens
- Walk the seafront from Brighton Pier to Hove Lawns
- Catch a show at Brighton Dome or Komedia
- Join a paddleboard lesson or try sea swimming if you’re feeling brave
Nearby gems
- The dramatic cliffs of Seven Sisters are just a short drive or bus ride away
- Lewes offers medieval streets and independent shops, perfect for a day trip
- Devil’s Dyke in the South Downs provides panoramic views and scenic walking trails
Best time to visit
- May is festival season and the city comes alive with events
- Summer brings beach weather and open-air concerts but also bigger crowds
