Why there’s more to love here than just the Bard

Stratford-upon-Avon is, of course, famously the birthplace of one William Shakespeare. And while that fact is inescapable , from the souvenir mugs to the guided tours where everyone speaks in iambic pentameter , there’s much more to this elegant Warwickshire town than its literary claim to fame. Leave the quill behind for a moment and you’ll find a destination full of pleasing contradictions: rural but cultured, quiet yet lively, steeped in history but never stuck in it.

A riverside town that actually knows how to do riverside

Plenty of British towns boast about having a river but Stratford makes good on the promise. The Avon isn’t just a backdrop here , it’s a focal point. Locals paddleboard before breakfast, couples drift by in rowing boats, and picnics on the grassy banks seem to multiply by the hour on sunny days. There’s a delightful lack of urgency. A gentle meander along the towpath reveals swans with very high opinions of themselves, ornamental bridges and a surprising number of people who appear to be eating ice cream no matter the season.

Walk far enough and you’ll hit the Stratford Greenway, a five-mile route that once carried steam trains and now accommodates cyclists, dog walkers and the occasional determined jogger. The countryside here has a knack for being effortlessly cinematic , all hedgerows, old oaks and fields that appear to roll on forever without actually going anywhere.

The food scene that nobody tells you about

For a town that could easily rest on its Tudor laurels, Stratford has quietly put together an impressive food game. This is a place where you can have posh coffee and smashed avocado at a canal-side café in the morning, tuck into an Indian feast by lunchtime, and enjoy a seven-course tasting menu for dinner if you’re feeling flush. There’s no loud bragging about this, just a quietly confident belief that if you want good food, you’ll find it.

Venture into the surrounding villages and you’ll uncover even more edible delights. Welford-on-Avon has pubs where the pork belly crackles like a radio tuning in to a football match. Shottery has a garden centre café that somehow makes carrot cake taste like a small miracle. And on market days, the local produce stalls in Stratford itself offer everything from venison sausages to artisanal fudge that practically dares you not to buy it.

Green spaces, secret paths and barely a chain store in sight

It’s easy to get lost in Stratford, but in the best possible way. The town centre is a pleasing mix of crooked buildings, narrow lanes and independent shops that sell things you never knew you needed. There’s a place that deals exclusively in handmade soaps shaped like hedgehogs. Another appears to specialise in curious notebooks and vintage binoculars. You leave wondering how you managed to spend £28 on jam and not be annoyed about it.

Just beyond the town, the Welcombe Hills offer one of those views that makes you want to stop mid-walk and have a reflective moment. Sheep graze in the distance. Skylarks do their thing overhead. You might be able to see the edge of Birmingham if the light’s right but somehow that doesn’t spoil it.

For a more secluded adventure, the footpath to Clifford Chambers offers a quiet stroll through farmland and over ancient wooden stiles. It’s barely signposted and all the better for it.

Theatre, yes, but not that theatre

Everyone knows about the Royal Shakespeare Company, but not everyone realises Stratford has a second, slightly scruffier but no less lovable theatre scene. The Bear Pit and the Attic Theatre stage everything from obscure comedies to full-throttle musicals. You can often sit so close to the stage that you feel like part of the set. There’s a kind of earnest enthusiasm to these productions that makes even a mildly shambolic scene change feel endearing rather than off-putting.

Music lovers should time their visit with the Stratford Music Festival or one of the many classical concerts held in old churches that smell of pew polish and optimism. The sound quality is surprisingly good and the interval wine is always served with a biscuit, which feels civilised in a very English sort of way.

A base for exploring proper countryside

Stratford isn’t just a destination in itself , it’s also a springboard. Within twenty minutes you can be deep in the Cotswolds, driving along roads that seem to have been designed by someone with a fondness for curves and dry stone walls. Broadway, Chipping Campden and Stow-on-the-Wold are all within reach and offer the kind of postcard scenery that might make you question your current life choices.

Or head north and you’re in Warwick, where the castle looks like it’s auditioning for a historical drama and the streets are full of antique shops that smell richly of time and dust.

The joy of unexpected charm

In a town as internationally famous as Stratford, it’s easy to assume you know what you’re getting. But the real magic lies in the bits that don’t make the brochures. The unexpected quiet of the Holy Trinity churchyard at dusk. The antique shop where a man in a waistcoat sells ancient maps and tells you they’re probably cursed. The local who gives you directions and then insists on walking you halfway there.

So yes, come for Shakespeare. But stay for the town that doesn’t need him to be interesting. Stratford-upon-Avon, it turns out, wears its fame lightly and saves its best bits for those willing to look just beyond the obvious.

Need to know

Getting here

Stratford-upon-Avon is well-connected by train, with direct services from Birmingham (under an hour) and London Marylebone (around two hours). Drivers can reach the town via the M40, exiting at junction 15 for Warwick, then following the A46. There’s plenty of parking, but it fills quickly on weekends. For a more scenic arrival, consider cycling in along the Stratford Greenway or arriving by narrowboat via the canal.

Where to stay

You’ll find everything from crooked-beamed inns to slick modern boutiques. The Arden Hotel opposite the RSC has river views and a touch of glamour. The Townhouse offers stylish rooms inside a 400-year-old building on Sheep Street. For something more rural, Baraset Barn Hotel just outside town mixes countryside calm with contemporary comforts.

Where to eat

The Woodsman does hearty British fare with flair and firewood. For lighter bites, try Box Brownie for coffee or Bensons for homemade cakes and casual brunch.

What to do (beyond the Bard)

• Stroll along the Avon or hire a boat near the Bancroft Gardens
  
• Walk or cycle the Stratford Greenway to Long Marston
  
• Visit the MAD Museum (Mechanical Art and Design) for hands-on weirdness
  
• Browse the independent shops on Sheep Street and Henley Street
  
• Catch a show at the Bear Pit or Attic Theatre
  
• Take a picnic to the Welcombe Hills for sweeping views of Warwickshire
  

Nearby gems

• Welford-on-Avon for a pint and thatched cottages
  
• Charlecote Park for deer-spotting and grand gardens
  
• Broadway and Chipping Campden for classic Cotswold charm
  
• Warwick for a castle that means business
  

Best time to visit

Spring and early autumn are sweet spots for weather and fewer crowds. The river is at its loveliest from May to September, and you’ll find the markets and festivals in full swing. Winter is quieter, but the twinkly lights and Christmas market add a dose of old-world magic.